Chefs Joseph Lenn, left, and Jeb Aldrich. Lenn, the owner of J.C. Holdway, is Knoxville’s only James Beard Award-winning chef. Aldrich is executive chef at Cataloochee Ranch. (Photo by Laura Lenn.)
A chef knows he has a dedicated following when he has a wine dinner in a location 99 miles away from his restaurant and more than a dozen hometown folks make the trek to attend!
That was the case this past Sunday when Joseph Lenn, the chef-owner of J.C. Holdway in downtown Knoxville, was invited to be the final featured guest chef in the popular Summer Supper series held at Cataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley, North Carolina. Lenn joined forces with Jeb Aldrich, Cataloochee’s executive chef, and Brooke Sabel, national sales and marketing director of Peay Vineyards in West Sonoma, for a memorable culinary evening.
The five dinner courses plus three passed hors d’oeuvres were paired with a total of eight different wines over the course of the evening. Given that line-up, you can understand why Alan and I decided to spend the night at the ranch rather than drive back to Knoxville after dinner. Plus, we had never stayed overnight at the renovated version of Cataloochee Ranch and we wanted to check it out. We are glad we did!
Cataloochee’s wine director, Cara De Lavallade, welcomed everyone with glasses of chilled Cep “Hopkins Ranch” rose of Pinot Noir, 2023.
Mingling time to start the evening.
Out on the patio, Knoxville visitors Sherry Jenkins and Eddie Mannis.
They were visiting from Knoxville with their partners, Blake Gibson and Renee Repka.
Isn’t the view stunning? That barn is an event center.
Another magnificent view at about 5 p.m.
Cataloochee owns more than 20 horses. Most can be ridden by guests. They all come out together at sunset.
The leaves already are starting to change there. The temperature is about 10 degrees cooler at 5,000 feet above sea level.
Cataloochee Ranch owner David Colquitt, left, with Chef Lenn’s parents, Emily and Jerry Lenn. The Lenns are from Knoxville, but also have a cabin nearby in North Carolina.
Alan Carmichael with Brooke Sabel of Peay Vineyards. They are holding glasses of that rose of Pinot Noir, which Brooke described as tasting like “salty watermelon in a glass.” And, she added, “It comes in a screw-top bottle — easy to sneak into movie theaters or on a picnic!” Love it!
First appetizer was Cruze Farm buttermilk biscuits with pork shoulder and chow chow.
They paired really well with the rose of Pinot Noir.
David Colquitt with the chef’s wife, Laura Lenn, left, and Julia Craze, formerly of Knoxville and now of Waynesville, NC, and Huntsville, AL.
My favorite passed hors d’oeuvres were these chicken croquettes with mustard aioli.
Also from Knoxville, Jeff Talman and Jennifer Ackley.
The finale of Chef Lenn’s passed nibbles: Foie Gras torchon.
Here’s the light at 6:03 p.m. when we were called in for dinner.
Terry Spalding, the general manager of Cataloochee Ranch, welcomed guests.
As did chefs Aldrich, left, and Lenn. These two crossed paths more than 20 years ago when both were just starting out at Peninsula Grill, a fine dining restaurant in Charleston. Until Sunday, they hadn’t seen each other since then.
Julia and Steve Craze.
Brooke Sabel telling a little of the history of Peay Vineyards.
First course by Chef Lenn: shaved summer squash, smoked Sunburst trout, and cornbread, with garlic-thyme vinaigrette. It was paired with West Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, 2022.
Doug and Betty Sue Sparks, also Knoxvillians who own a cabin near Cataloochee Ranch.
I loved the sweet Bachelor Button on our table!
The stunningly beautiful next course by Chef Jeb Aldrich: wood-grilled blue fin tuna, spiced crimson lentils, local frying peppers, and fennel, with sumac creme fraiche. (I think I see some of those Bachelor Button petals!) This course was paired with Cep Pinot Noir West Sonoma Coast, 2022.
By 7:30, the volume level was rising and folks were getting really comfortable.
Which may explain why I forgot to take a photo of Chef Lenn’s third course: mushroom-stuffed chicken, with corn, chanterelles, and cherry tomatoes with chicken jus. It was terrific paired with two different vintages of Ama Estate Pinot Noir: 2014 and 2021. Everyone around me agreed the 2014 was the superior year.
Even though I didn’t get a picture of the chicken dish, I did get a photo of Chef Lenn introducing it! (If you really want to see what it looked like, click here to see the same dish served on a different occasion! Scroll way down!)
Here’s the gorgeous lighting at about 7:30.
Joyce Hauck, left, and Diane Mannion. These two old friends spend half the year in Titusville, FL, and half in Waynesville, NC.
Holy cow! Literally. Chef Lenn’s next course was koji-cured NY strip, with potato-leek pave, charred snap beans and tomato butter. (Those potatoes are the best thing I believe I’ve ever eaten!) This course also got two wines: La Bruma Estate Syrah from 2014 and 2021 vintages. Again, we all thought the 2014 was superior, but they both were excellent.
“We aren’t messing around,” said Brooke Sable, referring to the glasses of Syrah. “These are two of the greatest vintages we have ever produced!”
Chef Lenn explaining.
From left, Mark Ingram, Jerod Pilot, Hope Ingram, Jordan Pilot, and David Colquitt. Hope Ingram is the sister of Sandy Beall, who founded Blackberry Farm near Knoxville.
Brooke Sable chatting at our table.
Angie Nga Chan is executive pastry chef at Cataloochee Ranch.
This dessert she made is called “The Apple!” Ha.
Here’s its inside. It is made of local apples, vanilla bean Mascarpone mousse, hazelnut praline, and sea salt caramel. Wine pairing was a West Sonoma Coast Estate Viognier, 2022. (Or, as Brooke described it, “a Viogn-yay!” Ha.)
The architects of our wonderful evening, from left: Chef Joseph Lenn, Executive Pastry Chef Angie Nga Chan, Chef Jeb Aldrich, and Wine Director Cara De Lavallade. Great job, everyone.
David Colquitt making closing comments.
After dinner, Jeff Talman, left, and David Colquitt.
Great service by Megan Kiefert and Winston Wright.
The sky as we walked to our cabin shortly after 10.
Beautiful meal and beautiful place!
That looks fabulous: the venue, the food, the wines, the company! I believe I have had those potatoes served by Joseph. You are correct that they are the best!
After that dinner, I’m convinced Joseph secretly puts magic in the dishes — either that, or he’s trying to make sure I never cook again. Either way, 99 miles was worth every bite! Cynthia, your coverage was as delightful as the meal—capturing every delicious detail!
Truly a night to remember. That menu is stunning!!!
Oh gee Cynthia! This rivals as one of your best Streaks as the photos, food and venue are stellar. Can’t wait to go back to the Ranch.
Sara: Absolutely! So glad we went!
Gay: I think he has served them at several special occasion meals. Worth the price of admission!!
Laura: Thanks! And thanks for sitting with us. The drive definitely was worth it!
Rusha: He hit it out of the park!!
Phyllis: Thanks, friend! Let’s plan to go there when we visit The Swag next month!
It all sounds wonderful! Meanwhile Sue and I were a mile away (as the crow flies) eating bbq and potato salad and drinking cheap malbec. Maybe next time…
Allen: Oh, sorry! You would have been a great addition! Where were you all?
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