Soaking up art and atmosphere in New Orleans

Artist Hunt Slonem's historic plantation, Albania. The movie "All the President's Men" starring Sean Penn was filmed there in 2006.

Artist Hunt Slonem’s historic plantation, Albania. The movie “All the King’s Men” starring Sean Penn was filmed there in 2006.

Earlier this month, the Knoxville Museum of Art arranged a trip to New Orleans for 32 Knoxville art lovers. The outing, offered through the museum’s so-called “Collectors Circle,” was a whirlwind three-night stay that offered the opportunity to visit two artists’ homes, two very different museums, as well as the home of a collector, and a plethora of eateries where we consumed about a month’s worth of calories (but who cares?).

Let’s talk about the two amazing artists and their very different homes first. Hunt Slonem may be familiar to Knoxville Museum of Art members because the museum owns two of his large paintings of parrots. Slonem also was the featured artist in 2012 of the museum’s major fundraising art auction, L’Amour du Vin. (Click here for a story about his visit to Blackberry Farm that weekend.)

We were greeted with mimosas upon our arrival at Albania. Here's Alan Carmichael with his.

We were greeted with mimosas upon our arrival at Albania. Here’s Alan Carmichael with his.

A two-hour drive out of New Orleans is Slonem’s historic 16,000-square-foot sugarcane plantation, Albania, built during the years 1837 to 1842. It is near the town of Jeanerette in St. Mary Parish. Although Slonem was not present for our visit, he generously opened his home (one of three mansions he owns) and sent his property manager, Butch Bailey, to show us around.

Being on the grounds of Albania – and later at another artist’s abode in the famous Lower Ninth Ward — gives one that kind of spooky, seductive New Orleans feel that is hard to describe and harder to shake. With that jazzy, sexy vibe, it’s easy to see why the area produces so many artists of every kind. For his part, Slonem obviously felt the same thing because he said the moment he saw Albania, he said to himself, “I have to have it,” although it was in a state of disrepair and he hadn’t even laid eyes on the inside of it.

(Click here for a story on the history of Albania.)

We were asked not to post photos of the interior of Albania on the Internet (drat!), but I’ll tell you it is chock full of antiques and every wall is covered floor-to-ceiling with art, that of Slonem himself mixed in with historic portraits, which he collects. “The thing about Hunt,” our guide Bailey said, “is that his passion is collecting and collecting and collecting!” (Another Slonem collection we were shown: top hats!)

It was at Albania where we were served the best meal of the trip, in my opinion. I’ll put up a post just about the food from the trip in a few days.

Butch Bailey, who lives near to Albania, grows satsumas. They decorated the tables and provided garnish for the mimosas. It was a simple, elegant touch.

Butch Bailey, who lives near to Albania, grows satsumas. They decorated the tables and provided garnish for the mimosas. It was a simple, elegant touch.

It was a pleasure to get to spend time with Jayne and Myron Ely, members of the Collectors Circle.

It was a pleasure to get to spend time with Jayne and Myron Ely, members of the Collectors Circle.

 

Susan Seymour, left, and Sarah Stowers were fun members of our group.

Susan Seymour, left, and Sarah Stowers were fun members of our group.

 

So were Maggie Erickson, left, and Cathy Hill.

So were Maggie Erickson and Cathy Hill.

Our friend Sheena McCall is in the financial services industry. She's always working!

Our friend Sheena McCall is in the financial services industry. She’s always working!

 

The side lawn. Don't you love that gauzy, languid atmosphere this evokes?

A view of the side lawn. Don’t you love that gauzy, languid atmosphere this evokes?

 

Mimosas in hand, we gathered on the front porch to hear from Stephen Wicks (blue shirt), the curator of the Knoxville Museum of Art, and Butch Bailey (khakis and green shirt), property manager of Albania.

After mimosas, we gathered on the front porch to hear from Stephen Wicks (blue shirt), the curator of the Knoxville Museum of Art, and Butch Bailey (khakis and green shirt), property manager of Albania.

 

Since I can post photos of the inside of the house, here is one of the Hunt Slonem paintings owned by the Knoxville Museum of Art. He is all about color and he loves animals.

Since I can’t post photos of the inside of the house, here is one of the Hunt Slonem paintings owned by the Knoxville Museum of Art. He is all about color and he loves animals as subjects.

Here's the other Slonem owned by KMA. Both are on loan to the Knoxville Convention Center right now and can be viewed if you enter on the Clinch Avenue side across the street from the Holiday Inn Worlds Fair Park.

Here’s the other Slonem owned by KMA. Both are on loan to the Knoxville Convention Center right now and can be viewed if you enter on the Clinch Avenue side across the street from the Holiday Inn Worlds Fair Park.

 

After the house tour, we enjoyed the view from the porch on the upper level.

After the house tour, we enjoyed the view from the porch on the upper level.

 

Isn't it restful and seductive?

Isn’t it restful and enticing?

barbara apking

Barbara Apking thought so!

And Riley Anderson.

And Riley Anderson.

Out back is a bayou.

Out back is a bayou.

These huge copper vessels were used in the old days to boil down sugar cane. Today, they are mostly used as water gardens or, as Butch Bailey said, "mosquito attractors." Ha.

These huge copper vessels were used in the old days to boil down sugar cane. Today, they are mostly used as water gardens or, as Butch Bailey said, “mosquito attractors.” Ha.

Here's the view of Albania from the back.

Here’s the view of Albania from the back.

John Cotham, left, and Pete Crawford

John Cotham, left, and Pete Crawford

Watching everyone strolling around near the bayou, I mentioned to one of our luncheon servers my extreme fear of snakes. “Ma’am, there are more things that can kill you in Louisiana than anywhere else,” he said nonchalantly. Comforting.

Fountain cherub

Fountain cherub

 

Across the street was some of that sugar cane, which at one time grew on the 6,000 acres surrounding Albania.

Across the street was some of that sugar cane, which at one time grew on the 6,000 acres surrounding Albania.

Soon, with a little buzz on from the mimosas and the wine served at lunch, it was time to re-board our coach for the ride back to New Orleans and a trip to the Ninth Ward shotgun house and studio of artist Gina Phillips.

Stephen Wicks, right, and Bradley Sumrall, the chief curator/manager of collections at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, welcome Sylvia Peters to Gina Phillps' home and studio.

Stephen Wicks, right, and Bradley Sumrall, the chief curator/manager of collections at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, welcome Sylvia Peters to Gina Phillips’ home and studio.

 

Artist Gina Phillips in her home on Sister Street across the street from the Holy Cross levee in the Lower Ninth Ward.

Artist Gina Phillips in her home on Sister Street across the street from the Holy Cross levee in the Lower Ninth Ward.

 

Gina is a painter and a musician. But, lately, she has become a fabric artist on a grand scale. She has an incredible exhibit at the Ogden Museum, which we would visit the following day.

Gina is a painter and a musician. But, lately, she has become a fabric artist on a grand scale. She has an incredible exhibit at the Ogden Museum, which we would visit the following day.

She works with a swing arm Nolting stitching machine to combine fabric, thread and other objects into a work of art.

She works with a swing arm Nolting stitching machine to combine fabric, thread and other objects into a work of art.

Some of her raw materials.

Some of her raw materials.

 

All colors of thread are involved.

All colors of thread are involved.

A bright painting of a boat.

A bright painting of a boat.

Here is a large fabric piece.

Here is a large fabric piece.

Guitar

Guitar

In Gina's backyard, you can get a feeling for the neighborhood. She says all the neighbors are close and get together often.

In Gina’s backyard, you can get a feeling for the intimacy of the neighborhood. She says all the neighbors are close and get together often. She feels safe.

 

Lush tropical  plants like this banana tree thrive in the backyard.

Lush tropical plants like this banana tree thrive in the backyard.

As we were leaving, we couldn't resist a walk to the top of the levee across the street.

As we were leaving, we couldn’t resist a walk to the top of the levee across the street.

Cathy Hill thought the setting was perfect for a picture of her husband, Mark.

Cathy Hill thought the setting was perfect for a picture of her husband, Mark.

 

The sunset was stunning.

The sunset was stunning.

Talks are under way to possibly bring Gina Phillips and an exhibit of her work to the Knoxville Museum of Art. I hope that works out.

Coming up: A tale of two New Orleans museums with very different approaches to collecting and a look at how that relates to what we are doing with our museum here in Knoxville. Also coming up: Eating New Orleans!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 Responses to Soaking up art and atmosphere in New Orleans

  1. David Butler, on November 26th, 2013 at 5:57 pm said:

    Do not ever go to New Orleans without me again! Sounds like a great trip. Can’t wait to see the other posts (i.e. pictures of food).

  2. Shaun Fulco, on November 26th, 2013 at 6:16 pm said:

    New Orleans is very seductive. It can take hold of you and lure you in. In some ways good, and some not so good. It really should be “sin city” as opposed to “the big easy”. It’s funny you used the words “seductive” and “spooky” because I see that clearly now when I return for visits. While I lived there, not so clear. I’m happy to visit, but ready to go. I feel as though I broke free, in a sense, when I left there. Great food, music, art and all around culture. Great place to VISIT.

  3. Cynthia Moxley, on November 26th, 2013 at 10:35 pm said:

    David: I wish you had been with us! Next time for sure, I hope.

    Shaun: I am so glad you only go to New Orleans for visits now because we love having you as the CFO of Moxley Carmichael. But NOLA is truly so seductive and alluring that I am sure it is difficult for folks to break away. Just glad you did!

  4. Rusha Sams, on November 27th, 2013 at 7:41 am said:

    Although I grew up near New Orleans, I never visited Albania. Thanks for including Albania and the many stops you made along the way so I could experience this lovely trip through your blog. Can’t wait for the post on the great food — it could be a long one! Bring on that Nawlins fun!

  5. Cynthia Moxley, on November 27th, 2013 at 10:57 am said:

    Rusha: I didn’t know you grew up near New Orleans! I’d love to hear some of your stories. Do you still make gumbo?

  6. Gay Lyons, on November 27th, 2013 at 7:03 pm said:

    Sounds like a great trip. Can’t wait to read about the rest of it.

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