How to have a great time in Chicago

From the top of the John Hancock Building, only the tallest skyscrapers are visible above the clouds.

From the top of the John Hancock Building, only the tallest skyscrapers are visible above the fog.

If you need another short get-away, in the same amount of time it takes you to drive to Chattanooga (click here for a blog post about that), you can fly to Chicago! Of course it may cost a little more.

Here are some recommendations from a recent visit we made to the Windy City.

First, the restaurants. We made our reservations before we left Knoxville to be sure we got in all the places we wanted to go. That turned out to be a good thing as the waits were long at all three of our major selections. We were quite deliberate in our choices. We wanted to go to a celebrity chef’s place, to a “classic” Chicago spot, and to a restaurant in one of Chicago’s famous ethnic neighborhoods.

We arrived on a Thursday afternoon, checked into our hotel, the historic Hilton Chicago at 720 Michigan Ave. (recommend an upgrade to a lake view room!), and headed to the Frontera Grill, chef Rick Bayless‘s very popular place on North Clark Street. The food: trendy, organic, delicious Mexican.

Our friend Dawn Ford toasts with a festive margarita at Frontera Grill. You had to have one!

Our friend Dawn Ford toasts with a festive margarita at Frontera Grill. You had to have one!

The Mexican-themed art was striking.

The Mexican-themed art was striking.

Yikes!

Yikes!

The restaurant seats 65 lucky people.

The restaurant seats 65 lucky people.

Although all our food was wonderful, we gave Richard Ford the prize for having the best order of the night: a rich chocolate mocha dessert.

Although all our food was wonderful, we gave Richard Ford the prize for having the best order of the night: a rich chocolate mocha dessert.

Here's a closer look at that!

Here's a closer look at that!

I took home a bottle of this tongue-tingling hot sauce.

I took home a bottle of this tongue-tingling hot sauce.

The obligatory pose outside of the restaurant

The obligatory pose outside of the restaurant

Back at the hotel, we parked ourselves at the little Irish pub which was the friendliest spot we could find. There we participated in a tradition the four of us have when we travel together — a competitive game of  Hearts.

The pub is called Kitty O'Shea's.

The pub is called Kitty O'Shea's.

Alan deals.

Alan deals.

It was a foggy night on Michigan Avenue.

It was a foggy night on Michigan Avenue.

We think a “must do” in Chicago is an architectural cruise. It’s a wonderful way to see all the fabulous buildings and hear a volunteer, in our case a grad student in architecture, describe the history of the most significant ones. We hopped on a one-hour cruise Friday morning.

Here is a view from the cruise boat.

Here is a view from the cruise boat.

Many, many industrial and office buildings in Chicago have been converted into condominiums. Our guide said the first thing the new owners do is add balconies to all the units. He called it the “balconization of Chicago!”

Here are some of those balconies.

Here are some of those balconies.

More balconies.

More balconies.

The Marina Towers have been featured in many movies.

The Marina Towers have been featured in many movies.

Tribune Tower, built in 1922, won the "most beautiful building in the world" contest.

Tribune Tower, built in 1922, won the "most beautiful building in the world" contest.

Trump Tower, finished in 2009, is the second-tallest building in the United States. It was featured in the first season of "The Apprentice."

Trump Tower, finished in 2009, is the second-tallest building in the United States. It was featured in the first season of "The Apprentice."

A view from the river

A view from the river

Our guide said locals call this the "chia pet" building because of the ivy! Ha.

Our guide said locals call this the "chia pet" building because of the ivy! Ha.

Buddies Alan and Richard on the cruise.

Buddies Alan and Richard on the cruise.

Then we took a cab to the Shedd Aquarium which is being run by former Knoxvillians Penny and Ted Beattie.

Our cab featured a unique air conditioning system. Ha!

Our cab featured a unique air conditioning system. Ha!

The Shedd, which opened in 1930, is a historic landmark. It is home to 32,500 animals. Interesting fact we learned is that when it opened, salt water was shipped to the aquarium from Florida via railroad tanker cars. Today, the sea water is created from fresh water mixed with salt additives.

A special exhibit on jelly fish attracted us. The jellies will be there until May 2012.

We loved this sculpture of a boy with a huge fish outside the aquarium.

We loved this sculpture of a man with a huge fish outside the aquarium.

But now, the jellies!

A jelly's body is 95 percent water.

A jelly's body is 95 percent water.

The feeding arms on some jellies are eight feet long!

The feeding arms on some jellies are eight feet long!

Moon jellies

Moon jellies

Egg yolk jelly

Lion's mane jelly

Northeast Pacific sea nettle

Northeast Pacific sea nettle

Upside down jellies can live in very shallow water. Boy, would I hate to step on these things.

Upside down jellies can live in very shallow water. Boy, would I hate to step on these things.

There are other interesting creatures, of course.

Like this porpoise

Like this porpoise.

We saw lots of turtles.

We saw lots of turtles.

And some very ugly fish.

And some very ugly fish.

The gift shops were super clever!

Wow!

Wow!

They featured all things “jelly.”

Like this vase.

Like this vase.

And even stuffed jellies!

And even stuffed jellies!

On our stroll back to our hotel, we encountered this right on Michigan Avenue. I think it belongs to the nearby Field Museum.

Hello!

Friday night was our evening for dinner at a quintessentially “Chicago” restaurant. We selected Gene and Georgetti, a classic steakhouse located on North Franklin Street. We were not disappointed. The food, the decor, the atmosphere and the staff could have been straight from 1941 when the restaurant was established and quickly became the hangout for famous gangsters and Frank Sinatra and his pals. As if to confirm our choice, a few nights ago I saw Gene and Georgetti featured on Emeril Lagasse’s Cooking Channel show, “The Originals with Emeril,” which reports on classic American eateries.

Here we are at Gene and Georgetti!

Here we are at Gene and Georgetti!

This famous two-wall mural is said to depict owner Tony Durpetti's old neighborhood. It features himself as a 7-year-old boy.

This famous two-wall mural is said to depict owner Tony Durpetti's old neighborhood. It features himself as a 7-year-old boy.

Everythig about this place is old fashioned, including this salad.

Everything about this place is old fashioned, including this salad.

Our friend Richard loves steak and he is opposed to fancy seasoning on it. “Let the meat speak for itself,” he says. At Gene and Georgetti, they do just that. The steaks are unseasoned, but heavily charred in a 1,100 degree oven.

While the rest of us ordered steak, Dawn chose a veal chop.

While the rest of us ordered steak, Dawn chose a veal chop.

Nobody leaves this place hungry! We were so full, we couldn’t even think of dessert. But we did!

Delicious spumoni -- split four ways.

Delicious spumoni -- split four ways.

Another must-see is the view from the John Hancock building. Specifically, the Signature Room on the 95th floor.

We argued over whether this was fog or a cloud. But it was breath-taking, no matter what.

We argued over whether this was fog or a cloud. But it was breath-taking, no matter what.

Another view

Another view

Then it was back to the Hilton Chicago for our traditional late night game of Hearts!

In 1999, Chicago was among the first cities to have a series of animal sculptures painted by local artists. This cow, inside the Hilton, was one of them.

In 1999, Chicago was among the first cities to have a series of animal sculptures painted by local artists. This cow, inside the Hilton, was one of them.

We settled into the hotel's lounge called Lakeside Green for our game.

We settled into the hotel's lounge called Lakeside Green for our game.

Saturday was our last day in Chicago. The guys had planned long ago to take in a baseball game while they were there. The Cubs were not playing in town. But the White Sox were. So Alan and Richard headed to U.S. Cellular Field to see the Sox take on the Dodgers.

Richard at the game

Richard at the game

They were giving away rugs shaped like home plate! No, it is NOT now living in our condo!

They were giving away rugs shaped like home plate! No, it is NOT now living in our condo!

While the fellows were at the baseball game, Dawn and I headed to the Art Institute of Chicago where there was a fabulous exhibition called “Kings, Queens and Courtiers: Art in Early Renaissance France.” Unfortunately, photos were not allowed of that particular exhibit. But here are some other things we saw there.

One of the majestic lions outside the Art Institute of Chicago Museum.

One of the majestic lions outside the Art Institute of Chicago Museum.

Dawn poses on these thought-provoking stairs which contain a poem about religious tolerance.

Dawn poses on these thought-provoking stairs by Jitish Kallat which contain a poem about religious tolerance. The title of the exhibit: Public Notice 3.

This patio art by Pae White is called Restless Rainbow.

This patio art by Pae White is called Restless Rainbow.

Dawn became very intrigued by this huge bronze sculpture by Thomas Schutte entitled Vater Staat. She returned to it several times. I started calling him her "boyfriend."

Dawn became very intrigued by this huge bronze sculpture by Thomas Schutte entitled Vater Staat. She returned to it several times. I started calling him her "boyfriend."

We both loved the tiny little Thorne rooms. The Chicago museum has 68 of them. The Knoxville Museum of Art has nine.

We both loved the tiny little Thorne rooms. The Chicago museum has 68 of them. The Knoxville Museum of Art has nine.

Here's a look inside one of the Thorne rooms. Isn't it adorable?

Here's a look inside one of the Thorne rooms. Isn't it adorable?

For our final dinner — the one we wanted to have in one of the ethnic neighborhoods — we chose Santorini in Greek Town.

Here's the entrance to Greek Town.

Here's the entrance to Greek Town.

The Greek key pattern is in the sidewalks.

The Greek key pattern is in the sidewalks.

Most of the stores have Greek signage alongside the English.

Most of the stores have Greek signage alongside the English.

We loved the flaming cheese appetizer called saganaki.

We loved the flaming cheese appetizer called saganaki.

Here is how the fish selections are displayed at the table.

Here is how the fish selections are displayed at the table.

Of course we had Greek wine: crisp and dry.

Of course we had Greek wine: crisp and dry.

And Greek beer.

And Greek beer.

Here's the homey dining room.

Here's the homey dining room.

I LOVED my shrimp dish!

I LOVED my shrimp dish!

Outside pose

Outside pose

Then, back at the hotel, we played our final game of Hearts. This time in the lobby on our floor. I think I finally won a game. Yay!

Cards on the last night

Cards on the last night; wine in paper cups!

I hope this blog post inspires you to take a great trip to Chicago. It’s inspired me to want to go back!

Photo credit: Richard Ford took the photo of Alan at the baseball game. Thanks, Richard.

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11 Responses to How to have a great time in Chicago

  1. Alan Carmichael, on June 22nd, 2011 at 5:07 pm said:

    Mox, the pictures are great, even though I may have “overacted” in some of them. Love the jellyfish shots.

  2. Bill Lyons, on June 22nd, 2011 at 7:23 pm said:

    Thanks for the great portrait of Chicago and how best to experience it. But those jellyfish…wow!

  3. Stephen A Brown, on June 23rd, 2011 at 7:28 am said:

    Great trip! Love your restaurant choices. Bayless rocks. Been there several times and Chi town has so many more. You are really branching out on your food Mox. Way to go!!

  4. Gay Lyons, on June 23rd, 2011 at 12:33 pm said:

    Yum! I’m ready for a culinary tour of Chicago. I haven’t been there in way too long.

  5. Ellen Robinson, on June 23rd, 2011 at 2:35 pm said:

    We’re headed there to take in two operas at the Lyric in early November — can’t wait to go now!

  6. Shaun Fulco, on June 23rd, 2011 at 2:47 pm said:

    I have always wanted to go to Chicago’s Wrigley Field for a Cubs game. This makes me want to go even more! The picture from the top of the John Hancock building is amazing! Thanks for sharing.

  7. Cynthia Moxley, on June 23rd, 2011 at 2:53 pm said:

    Thanks, everyone! Ellen: I know you and Peter will have a blast. I’m ready to go back!

  8. Jack Rose, on June 23rd, 2011 at 6:09 pm said:

    Nice photos, Mox! You’re an artist. See? Anybody can do it.

  9. Cynthia Moxley, on June 23rd, 2011 at 11:16 pm said:

    Jack: Hardly!

    Stephen: Have to say I thought of you when we were there. Wondered if you had been to Frontera Grill and what you thought.

  10. Chad Tindell, on June 26th, 2011 at 7:24 am said:

    Had a conference each Spring in Chicago for about 12 years straight. Fabulous city. Friendly midwestern vibe in a big city. Restaurants, sports, shopping and museums. This is the first year I’ve missed. Photos and stories made me really miss that trip.

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