Crossroads Cafe offers delicious, exotic fare and great excuse for a history-laden road trip

Singapore hokkien chicken. Those are quail eggs in it.

Singapore hokkien chicken. Those are quail eggs in it.

Good news: If you want to experience authentic Singapore cooking, you don’t have to go all the way to Singapore.

You only have to take a short jaunt to Sewanee, Tennessee, where Knoxville native Richard Emory (Fulton High Class of ’66) and his wife, Irene, recently opened a very unique restaurant called Crossroads Cafe. Irene, you see, is from Singapore. After living literally all over the globe to accommodate Richard’s career as an architect, the couple decided to move from their most recent home in Sri Lanka to Sewanee so their 14-year-old son, Crawford, could attend St. Andrew’s-Sewanee School and take, among other things, Mandarin Chinese.

It doesn't look much different from other dumplings -- but it is. Unbelievably light and flavorful.

It doesn't look much different from other dumplings -- but it is. Unbelievably light and flavorful.

Torrential rains caused Alan and me to have to cancel our plans to attend the cafe’s grand opening a few weeks ago. But this Memorial Day weekend, we decided to check it out. Our friends Susan and Arthur Seymour joined us, as Arthur is a graduate of the University of the South in Sewanee and wanted to check out the new eatery, too.

Here’s the verdict: the food was simply amazing. None of us had ever tasted anything quite like it. Although our friend Richard was out of the country this past weekend, Irene was a fabulous host. She even joined us for part of our exploration of Sewanee.

If you decide to visit the Crossroads Cafe — and we highly recommend that you do — we think the best plan is to do as we did. Let Irene select some dishes and put them on the table family style so everyone can taste a wide variety of offerings. Also note that the restaurant does not serve wine or mixed drinks, only beer. But you are welcome to bring your own beverages, if you would like. Although, much to my surprise, we found Tsingtau beer to be a wonderful accompaniment to the spicy dishes. And, as much of a wine lover as I am, I don’t think wine would have been as well-matched.

The Crossroads Cafe is located in a historic building that once was a laundry.

The Crossroads Cafe is located in a storied building that once was a laundry.

Since 1899, a laundry of some sort has been operated on this site. The University of the South originally operated a laundry for its students, seminary, military academy and area residents. The original stone building burned in 1951 and, almost immediately, plans were made to construct a new fireproof building. University employees made the concrete blocks on site. Using a giant ramp that was specially built to curl around the entire building, workers rolled wheelbarrows of concrete up to pour the roof, thus making a concrete building on six sides. The new laundry opened in 1952. Until a few years ago, through various owners and iterations — including a coin laundry — the building operated as a clothes cleaning facility.

In 2010, Keri Moser purchased the building and opened a fine dining establishment, Ivy Wild, on the north end. Last year the Emorys leased space in the south end for Crossroads Cafe. Richard designed the interior space for the restaurant.

The Emorys maintained the industrial look of the building, including the high ceilings.

The Emorys maintained the industrial look of the building, including the high ceilings.

The couple shipped by container ship many furniture pieces they had collected over the years including this beautiful table made from a single huge slab of a tree.

The couple shipped to America by container ship many furniture pieces they had collected over the years, including this beautiful table made from a single huge slab of a tree.

They also brought these beautiful hand-woven panels.

They also brought these beautiful hand-woven panels.

These hang from the ceiling around the restaurant.

These hang from the ceiling around the restaurant.

This is a tea wheel, used in the production of tea.

This is a tea wheel, used in the production of tea.

The restaurant opens at noon and we were the first customers. Here is our table.

The restaurant opens at noon and we were the first customers. Here is our table.

Irene, the cook and mastermind behind Crossroads Cafe.

Irene, the cook and mastermind behind Crossroads Cafe.

The restaurant generally is closed on Monday and Tuesday. On Mondays, Irene goes to Nashville to buy supplies. On Tuesday, she does paperwork.

I don't eat duck, but those who do said this was the best duck they ever had eaten. It was served with four delicious condiments.

I don't eat duck, but those who do said this was the best duck they ever had eaten. It was served with four delicious condiments.

This was my favorite dish. Shrimp cooked with some kind of wonderful tamarind paste. I couldn't get the taste out of my mind for hours after our meal. It was magical.

This was my favorite dish. Shrimp cooked with some kind of wonderful tamarind paste. I couldn't get the taste out of my mind for hours after our meal. It was magical.

Indonesian beef rendang was the spiciest dish we had. It was so spicy, it was served with raita, a cucumber/yogurt sauce designed to moderate its heat.

Indonesian beef rendang was the spiciest dish we had. It was so spicy, it was served with raita, a cucumber/yogurt sauce designed to moderate its heat.

We could not get over how delicious these beets were. Irene said they were slow-cooked in coconut cream.

We could not get over how delicious these beets were. Irene said they were slow-cooked in coconut cream.

Stir-fried bok choy and mushrooms

Stir-fried bok choy and mushrooms

We also had a side dish of spicy lentils, seen at the top of this plate. And white and brown rice, of course.

We also had a side dish of spicy lentils, seen at the top of this plate. And white and brown rice, of course.

So, again, here's what you are looking for.

So, again, here's what you are looking for.

Next trip we'd also like to try Ivy Wild, the fine dining restaurant next door.

Next trip we'd also like to try Ivy Wild, the fine dining restaurant next door.

After our sumptuous lunch, we grabbed Irene and headed to check out a very visible Sewanee icon — the library of Sir John Templeton, a controversial figure from Franklin County, where Sewanee is situated.

The library is high on a bluff and can be seen from as far away as Winchester, Tennessee.

The library is high on a bluff and can be seen from as far away as Winchester, Tennessee, Templeton's hometown.

Templeton was a billionaire who pioneered the use of global diversification mutual funds. In 1999, “Money” magazine called him “arguably the greatest global stock picker of the century.” In 1964, he renounced his U.S. citizenship and moved to the Bahamas, saving himself, it is said, about $100 million in taxes. (He said the U.S. tax system was unfair.) After that, he maintained dual citizenship in the Bahamas and Great Britain and was knighted in 1987 by Queen Elizabeth II.

In addition to this library, he also established a foundation, whose purpose is to encourage exploration of “the big questions” — primarily those centered around science and religion. The foundation throws off about $70 million per year in research grants and other project funding. (Click here if you’d like to read about some of the controversies.)

What mattered to all of us last Sunday afternoon, however, was not the nature of Mr. Templeton’s political motives, but getting inside that library to check out the view from the back! To our surprise, we met some nice folks who were working near the entrance and they invited us onto the back porch, which was our ultimate goal. Come to find out, there are no books in the library. In fact, it is being used as an apartment building and has 10 units for rent. A lady who has been living there for 10 years told us, “It’s like a dorm for adults! Come by anytime at 5 o’clock, and someone will put a glass of wine in your hand and invite you onto the porch!” (Two apartments are coming open there immediately, she said. Note: no children or pets allowed.)

Here's that view looking north.

Here's that view looking west.

Alan and Irene on the porch

Alan and Irene on the porch

Arthur and Susan

Arthur and Susan

I found it odd that the dogwood trees on the property were still in full bloom this past weekend. Someone suggested that perhaps they were a different kind of dogwood than the ones here in Knoxville — and their blossoms did look pointy while ours are rounded. But they are dogwoods, aren’t they?

Arthur checks out one of several pretty dogwoods.

Arthur checks out one of several pretty dogwoods.

Here's a closeup. I hope one of my plant-loving friends can shed some light on this.

Here's a closeup. I hope one of my plant-loving friends can shed some light on this.

Here's a statue of John Templeton. Ironically, the book in his hand? "The Humble Approach."

Here's a statue of John Templeton. Ironically, the book in his hand? "The Humble Approach."

Of course, we made Alan shake his hand. "He's extending the hand of peace and friendship," Arthur insisted.

Of course, we made Alan shake his hand. "He's extending the hand of peace and friendship," Arthur insisted.

After that fun stop, we dropped Irene off back at the restaurant and headed to The University of the South to walk off some of those calories. The University of the South, commonly referred to as Sewanee, was founded in 1857 and is owned by the 28 southern dioceses of the Episcopal Church. Its School of Theology is one of the seminaries of the church. A quiet peacefulness permeates the atmosphere during a stroll. (Of course, the students are not on campus at the moment.)

All Saints Chapel at center of University of the South campus

All Saints Chapel at center of University of the South campus

Arthur called this church, "the largest monument to God and man in Franklin County."

Arthur called this church, "the largest monument to God and man in Franklin County."

Stunning interior of All Saints

Stunning interior of All Saints

McClurg Dining Hall is not a historic building, but it is made to look like on. (They love flying buttresses at Sewanee!)

McClurg Dining Hall is not a historic building, but it is made to look like one.

Another view of McClurg

Another view of McClurg, built in 2000

Breslin Tower, built in the 1870s, is famous for its bells, which chime on Sunday and Friday.

Breslin Tower, built in the 1870s, is famous for its bells, which chime on Sunday and Friday.

Click here if you’d like to know more about the bells and hear them chime.

Historic marker

Historic marker

Here are Arthur and Alan leaving the Kappa Sigma house where Arthur said he and his friends used to go "to relax after a day of studies and hours at the library." Right. Arthur was the Grand Master of the Kappa Sigs.

Here are Arthur and Alan leaving the Kappa Sigma house where Arthur said he and his friends used to go "to relax after a day of studies and hours at the library." Right. Arthur was the Grand Master of the Kappa Sigs.

Once again, as we strolled the campus, I was struck by the fact that peonies still were in full bloom there. They have long since faded here in Knoxville. I am not a garden expert, but I’m guessing it’s due to the difference in altitude?

Peonies are my favorite flower.

Peonies are my favorite flower.

So it was nice to get to see them again this year.

So it was nice to get to see them again this year.

Sewanee Memorial Cross dedicated to students and Franklin County residents who served in our country's wars.

Sewanee Memorial Cross dedicated to students and Franklin County residents who served in our country's wars.

So there, you have it. Don’t you think a little trip to Sewanee is in order?

Click here for a review of Crossroads Cafe that recently appeared in “The Tennessean.” Click here to go to the Crossroads Cafe Facebook page.

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17 Responses to Crossroads Cafe offers delicious, exotic fare and great excuse for a history-laden road trip

  1. Dawn Ford, on May 30th, 2013 at 10:56 am said:

    Food looks delish!

  2. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 11:00 am said:

    Dawn: It was! We should go! They had short ribs that I bet Richard would like.

  3. Shaun Fulco, on May 30th, 2013 at 11:08 am said:

    The food looks amazing! And I believe those are Kousa or Chinese Dogwoods. They have the pointy bloom and bloom a month or so later than the dogwoods here. I have two in my front yard.

  4. Tami Hartmann, on May 30th, 2013 at 11:19 am said:

    Oh my, this post should not be read before lunch! Those beets looked fabulous, with coconut cream? And that shrimp dish is a must! The dogwoods look like Kousa dogwood that typically bloom in June. We had those in New Jersey. I am surprised that Bruce and I have never ventured to Sewanee, but I think we may have to do that! Thanks for sharing!

  5. Mickey Mallonee, on May 30th, 2013 at 12:03 pm said:

    This looks too good not to make the trip.

  6. Alan Carmichael, on May 30th, 2013 at 12:07 pm said:

    The food was delicious, especially the duck and the dumplings. Big thanks to Irene.

  7. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 12:19 pm said:

    Thanks, Shaun and Tami for the info about the dogwoods. That’s good to know. (Not that I have a yard to take advantage of this new knowledge!) But if we did still have a yard, I’d plant some of those along with the “regular” dogwoods to extend the blooming season.

    And, yes, I’m telling you, the food was fantastic. And very, very unique. Irene goes to the Asian market in Nashville to get a lot of her supplies, she said. Plus the farmers’ market there. Every dish was amazing, truly.

  8. Ted Smith, on May 30th, 2013 at 2:36 pm said:

    Thanks for highlighting this trip. As a “good Episcopalian”, I have always wanted to visit Sewanee. Now we know about a great place to eat, too. Sounds amazing!

  9. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 3:51 pm said:

    Hey, Ted! Well, as a “not-so-good Catholic,” I felt right at home in that church! You all really should visit. It was fun.

  10. Gay Lyons, on May 30th, 2013 at 5:08 pm said:

    Sewanee is one of my favorite places. Croosroads Cafe sounds great–and it is always good to have yet another reason to return to the mountain. Count me in for a field trip there any time. It’s a lovely place to go in the summer–warm days, cool nights. If you didn’t go on this trip, you need to go to Piney Point, Greensview, Monteagle Assembly, St. Mary’s, and, of course, my alma mater, St. Andrew’s…I could go on and on.

  11. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 5:22 pm said:

    Oh, Gay, those sound like great reasons for a return visit! Along with the tamarind shrimp, of course!

  12. Irene Emory, on May 30th, 2013 at 5:38 pm said:

    Dear Cynthia, Alan, Arthur & Susan,

    What a Fun Sunday and we look forward to seeing all of you up in the mountains again soon! Thank you so much for the lovely article and beautiful photos!

  13. Gay Lyons, on May 30th, 2013 at 9:45 pm said:

    That tamarind shrimp sounds amazing. I would love to go to Sewanee & dine at Crossroads Cafe, Ivy Wild, and Pearl’s. My former classmate, Joy, who has been a chef in South Carolina for years, has come to the mountain and reopened Pearl’s. I love it that both Alan & I have longtime friends who’ve opened restaurants in Sewanee, a tiny place. What are the odds of that?

  14. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 9:57 pm said:

    Irene! Thank you so much for the hospitality and fabulous, one-of-a-kind dishes. We had a blast.

  15. Cynthia Moxley, on May 30th, 2013 at 10:09 pm said:

    Gay: Let’s have a planning meeting soon!

  16. Richard Emory, on May 31st, 2013 at 4:12 am said:

    Cynthia, thank you for your comments. Arthur is obviously a wonderful guide. Sorry that I missed you, but we do look forward to a return jaunt.

  17. Cynthia Moxley, on May 31st, 2013 at 8:23 am said:

    Hey, Richard! We missed you, but definitely will come back. Now we have a lot of other folks who want to come, as well. I can’t wait to have that shrimp again. And those dumplings. And Alan wants the duck! See? We have no choice but to return! Safe travels to you.

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