Les Papilles: A restaurant to die for

Lamb and vegetables “cooked a long time” at Les Papilles in Paris last week.

We were a little taken aback when we opened the door to the very small bistro in Paris called Bistroy Les Papilles, exactly on time for the reservation we had made more than a month in advance under the name of our traveling companion, Richard Ford.

We had not even completely entered the room when an apparently angry man yelled at us from across a counter: “Ford party?” We gave a startled nod and he blurted, “You did not confirm your reservation!” While we were sputtering something about not knowing we needed to confirm it, he ordered, “Follow me!” and rushed unsmiling into the crowded dining area with us in tow.

He directed us to a tiny table in the middle of the tiny eatery. He did not give us menus.

“Here’s what we are serving,” he stated flatly. “First course is potato and leek soup. Second course is lamb — cooked a long time. And vegetables — cooked a long time. Dessert is panna cotta with strawberries and pineapple. You can pick any bottle of wine on our walls. Or I can choose for you.”

“You choose,” I said, not about to cross him. It turned out to be my favorite meal we had in Paris.

To be fair, we knew in advance Les Papilles was a place where you do not choose your meal from a menu — you leave it to the chef to prepare the best dishes with the best ingredients of the day. Alan and I, who were in charge of planning the Paris part of our trip while Dawn and Richard Ford planned the London portion, picked this bistro way in advance based on the recommendations of our friends, Randy Kenner of the Knox County Circuit Court office and John North of the News Sentinel. “You just HAVE to go there,” Kenner insisted. We are glad we did.

A good sight.

The soup was over the top, ladled from a tureen in the center of the table over bowlfuls of bacon, butter and herbs placed in front of each of us. The lamb was falling-off-the-bone delicious. With no gamey flavor, I would have mistaken it for beef, had I not been told what it was. The vegetables, cooked, as our host said, “a long time” in the juices of the lamb, were caramelized and soft and included eggplant, which, of course, soaks up the flavors in which it is cooked. The panna cotta was smooth and light, which was a good thing after that main course. The white and red wines, as well, were perfect — and not terribly expensive, which can be a concern when you let someone from the restaurant select them.

Whimsical interior steps at Les Papilles.

By day, Les Papilles (which, in English, means “taste buds”) is an epicerie — a shop selling gourmet products including spices, sugars and coffee — as well as a delicatessen and wine cellar offering, as they say, “wines of the moment.” By night, it is an award-winning bistro. Its philosophy? “The highest quality food simply prepared and very good wines.” That is all.

So who was the crusty character who greeted us? Turns out it was the owner, Bertrand Bluy, a 42-year-old food and rugby enthusiast who started Les Papilles in 2003 and who developed the philosophy on which it is based.

He turned out not to be so grumpy after all. We came to think he was just joshing with us when we came in. As we left, we asked Bluy to pose with a knife to Richard’s chest as if he were going to stab him for not confirming our reservation. He laughed and complied. And he didn’t actually stab Richard, which was a good sign.

Les Papilles is located at 30 rue Gay Lussac near Luxembourg Gardens. We highly recommend you eat there on your next trip to Paris. But be sure you confirm your reservation.

(We have just returned from 10 days in London and Paris. Check the Blue Streak in coming days for more recommendations.)

Dawn and Richard entering the small but super charming Bistroy Les Papilles.

White wine for the first course. It was smooth and easy to drink. Also, a perfect match with the soup.

More info on the white wine.

Here’s what was in each soup bowl placed in front of us — before the soup was added. That white stuff? Butter.

Our fun traveling companions adding the soup.

The finished dish.

Here’s our second wine. Red, to go with the lamb.

More info on the red.

The lamb and veggies.

The cheese course featured the only goat cheese I’ve ever actually liked. And black olive tapenade. We spread both onto crusty bread.

Finally, the panna cotta.

Owner Bertrand Bluy showing Richard what can happen if you don’t confirm your reservations!