New Orleans food: worth the trip, of course

Myron and Jaynie Ely were among the 32 Knoxvillians on the trip. Here they are during a toast at Clancy's.

Myron and Jayne Ely were among the 32 Knoxvillians on the trip. Here they are during a toast at Clancy’s, a restaurant near the Garden District.

When folks find out we have been to New Orleans on a Knoxville Museum of Art trip, they ask all about the art we saw, right? No. “Where did you eat?” is what they really want to know.

As folks who read this blog from time to time may know, Alan and I go to New Orleans fairly regularly and we have our favorite eateries, naturally. (Click here or here for info on that.) But on the trip last month, we made it a point to go to several we’ve not visited before. We found some great new (to us) spots. And, I hate to say it, but we were disappointed in one of our old favorites that we did visit.

First, the good news. For my money, the best food we had on the trip was actually a catered meal at artist Hunt Slonem‘s sugarcane plantation. It was catered by the restaurant Clementine Dining and Spirits, located at 113 E. Main Street in New Iberia, about 130 miles from New Orleans proper. Since Clementine is closed on Mondays, the day of our visit, the restaurant’s owner, Wayne Peltier, helped prepare the noon meal for the 32 guests from Knoxville. We dined on the spacious back porch of Slonem’s mansion, overlooking the bayou a few feet away.

Tables on the porch of Hunt Slonem's plantation, Albania. The placement of the silverware is a hallmark of the restaurant, Clementine.

Tables on the porch of Hunt Slonem’s plantation, Albania. The placement of the silverware is a hallmark of the restaurant, Clementine.

Clementine Dining and Spirits is named for folk artist Clementine Hunter, owner Wayne Peltier’s favorite painter. She always signed her initials with the C placed backwards, with its arms “reaching out to hug you.” The tines of the fork represent the backwards C. You can see that the knife and spoon form the H in her initials.

Locally grown satsumas in a pretty bowl make up the simple centerpiece. The bread is served tied up in a napkin.

Locally grown satsumas in a pretty bowl make up the simple centerpiece. The bread is served tied up in a napkin.

 

The shrimp and grits were fantastic.

The shrimp and grits were fantastic, full of flavor and slightly spicy. The grits were made with chicken broth and heavy cream.

 

Alan had the same thing, but added a griod, which is a thinly sliced filet pounded, floured and sauteed.

Alan had the same thing, but added a griod, which is a thinly sliced filet of beef that is pounded, floured, sauteed and smothered in gravy. Yum, yum.

Charleene Edwards, Mark Hill

Facing the camera, from left, Lane Hays, Stuart Worden, Charleene Edwards and Mark Hill.

 

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Facing the camera, from left, Krishna Adams, Bob Hawthorne, Susan Hawthorne and Susan Seymour.

Facing the camera, from left,

Facing the camera, from left, Riley Anderson, Pandy Anderson, Bernie Bernstein and Cathy Hill.

Oh my God, the bread pudding was unbelievable! It was unusual in that it was topped with meringue, which was light and perfect for it.

Oh my God, the bread pudding was unbelievable! It was unusual in that it was topped with meringue, which was light and perfect for it.

Alan also raved about his dessert choice, pecan pie a la mode.

Alan also raved about his dessert choice, pecan pie a la mode.

So, Clementine provided my favorite food of the trip. I would love to go to the actual restaurant, but the two-hour drive from New Orleans may be a sticking point for getting back there. We shall see.

Alan’s favorite restaurant this time was an Uptown place called Clancy’s. Located at 6100 Annunciation Street, it was packed when our party of 10 arrived, but I do think we were the only non-residents. Clancy’s is a place for locals. It has the kind of atmosphere the old Regas Restaurant in Knoxville used to have — white tablecloths, but homey and comfortable. The wait staff members were personable and helpful. And the food was great. As were the martinis!

Martini girls: Maggie Erickson, right, and me at Clancy's.

Martini girls: Maggie Erickson, right, and me at Clancy’s.

 

Robin Turner, left, and Sylvia Peters at Clancy's.

Robin Turner, left, and Sylvia Peters at Clancy’s.

 

Decisions, decisions.

Decisions, decisions.

Clancy's crabmeat salad got rave reviews.

Clancy’s crabmeat salad got rave reviews.

 

Several of us had oysters Bienville and oysters Florentine.

Several of us had oysters Bienville and oysters Rockefeller.

The crab-stuffed shrimp were a hit.

The crab-stuffed shrimp were a hit.

 

Shrimp linguini

Shrimp linguini

Alan ordered seared baby drum and loved it.

Alan ordered seared baby drum and loved it.

 

My shrimp remoulade was fresh and beautiful.

My shrimp remoulade was fresh and beautiful.

We couldn't leave without sampling the creme brulee.

We couldn’t leave without sampling the creme brulee.

Alan had some kind of damn good thing! After the martini and the wine, I couldn't tell you what it was! It had the word "toffee" in it, though!

Alan had some kind of damn good thing! After the martini and the wine, I couldn’t tell you what it was. It had the word “toffee” in it, though. Hope that helps.

Another great meal at a place we’d never been before was at GW Fins in the French Quarter. Located at 808 Bienville Street and recommended to us by a friend’s New Orleans buddies, it clearly was a spot for business diners and conventioneers, among others. With a very modern, sleek feel to it, it was a contrast with the cozy Clancy’s. But we really liked the food there, as well. It was our last dinner of the trip, though, and we had to force ourselves to indulge in one more rich meal.

The modern interior of GW Fins.

The modern interior of GW Fins.

 

An interesting wall sculpture contained images of all kinds of sea creatures. This is just half of the piece.

An interesting wall sculpture contained images of all kinds of sea creatures. This is just half of the piece.

fins gumbo

The gumbo hit the spot, although the roux base was a little darker than that my grandmother used to make.

Lobster dumplings are really an appetizer, but I had them for my main course. They were delicate and absolutely delicious. I worried that the dumpling dough would overshadow the lobster, but it did not.

Lobster dumplings are really an appetizer, but I had them for my main course. They were delicate and absolutely delicious. I worried that the dumpling dough would overshadow the lobster, but it did not.

Alan had drum, again. Although it was prepared differently than that at Clancy's, he still enjoyed it.

Alan had drum, again. Although it was prepared differently than that at Clancy’s, he still enjoyed it. This one was parmesan crusted.

Robin Turner had a dish called Triple Iceberg Wedge: blue cheese and bacon, thousand island and tomato and creamy basil and shrimp.

Robin Turner had a dish called Triple Iceberg Wedge: blue cheese and bacon, thousand island and tomato and creamy basil and shrimp.

 

I do not know how we managed to eat dessert, but we did! Here is something called Salty Malty Ice Cream Pie. Awesome, to tell you the truth.

I do not know how we managed to eat dessert, but we did! Here is something called Salty Malty Ice Cream Pie. Awesome, to tell you the truth.

In New Orleans, my dessert of choice will always be bread pudding. This one is white chocolate and caramel bread pudding. Yes, it was as good as it looks!

In New Orleans, my dessert of choice will always be bread pudding. This one is white chocolate and caramel bread pudding. Yes, it was as good as it looks!

In New Orleans we stayed at a funky hotel in the Arts District called the Renaissance New Orleans Arts Hotel, a Marriott property located at 700 Tchoupitoulas Street. It was filled with all kinds of modern art, which I guess is why it was selected for our group. It was conveniently located not far from the French Quarter and had a bar/restaurant in it called Rene Bistrot. The bar was a great place to grab a table by the window and people-watch while sipping a cocktail. Since we arrived on the afternoon that the Saints were playing a home game, we got to see plenty of festively dressed fans heading to the Superdome. We also saw the various members of our group coming and going and we were able to wave them in to join us for drinks.

Here’s the deal with Rene Bistrot. It has fantastic drinks and appetizers and a great wait staff. But our dinner was dreadful and tasteless. I’ll just show you the good stuff. But you have been warned. Have snacks there, but don’t even THINK about having dinner there.

 

My husband, Alan  Carmichael, at Rene Bistrot. Oysters, anyone?

My husband, Alan Carmichael, at Rene Bistrot. Oysters, anyone?

Why, yes! At happy hour, they are a dozen oysters for $5!

Why, yes! At happy hour, they are a dozen oysters for $5!

 

From left, Bernie and Barbara Bernstein and Mimi Turner at our opening night reception.

From left, Bernie and Barbara Bernstein and Mimi Turner at our opening night reception.

 

Smoked salmon appetizers. Very good.

Smoked salmon appetizers. Very good.

 

Fried oysters seemed to bode well for things to come.

Fried oysters seemed to bode well for things to come.

Even the pizza was good.

Even the pizza was good.

And then we sat down to – yuk! Super bland onion soup, mushy gulf fish and my normally favorite dessert, bread pudding with whiskey sauce, that I swear had absolutely no flavor at all.

The other disappointment on our dining marathon was, unfortunately, Commander’s Palace. Located at 1403 Washington Avenue in the Garden District, Commander’s is usually one of our favorite stops. The only thing I can figure is that we normally go on Sunday for Jazz Brunch and perhaps that is just over-the-top great and not a good comparison. Also, we were in a private dining room this time and we were a party of 32, so maybe that was a problem. But you would think a place as storied and experienced as Commander’s Palace could handle that. The food still was good, but customer service was an issue.

We had pre-ordered all the courses: a romaine salad, griddle seared Gulf fish and a praline parfait for dessert. Also pre-ordered were a white wine (chardonnay) and a red wine. When the waiter came to pour the wine, my friend Rosemary Gilliam and I asked if, instead of the pre-orderd chardonnay, we could split a bottle of pinot grigio. We would, of course, pay for it out of our pockets. Incredibly, the waiter acted like this was a problem. When I offered to go to the bar myself and buy a bottle of wine to bring back to the table (I’m not sure there actually is a bar, but I was making a point!), he said he would have to check with the dining room manager. At last he relented and told us we would be allowed to purchase a bottle of pinot grigio.

We learned later that several of our party asked if they could have (and pay for) coffee after dessert. They were told no! Good grief.

Our group filled a private dining room at Commander's Palace.

Our group filled a private dining room at Commander’s Palace.

The seard Gulf fish was beautifully plated with crab boiled vegetables, local Meyer lemon and brown butter vinaigrette.

The seared Gulf fish was beautifully plated with crab boiled vegetables, local Meyer lemon and brown butter vinaigrette.

 

The praline parfait consisted of housemade vanilla bean ice cream with chipped chantilly, candied pecans, a crisp tuile and liquefied pralines! It was great.

The praline parfait consisted of housemade vanilla bean ice cream with whipped chantilly, candied pecans, a crisp tuile and liquefied pralines! It was great.

So, there you have it. The good, the bad and the ugly. Fortunately, much more good than anything. We can’t wait to go back to New Orleans. Please post in the comments any suggestions you have or interesting dining experiences you’ve had in the Big Easy.

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6 Responses to New Orleans food: worth the trip, of course

  1. Alan Carmichael, on December 10th, 2013 at 6:29 pm said:

    This was a great trip. I learned how to pronounce Tchoupitoulos.I asked that my goofy pose be dropped, and apparently my request has been ignored.

  2. Fay Bailey, on December 10th, 2013 at 6:37 pm said:

    Love Commanders Palace – was there in July. . What a great group and all that delicious food. I want to go back. Fay

  3. Susan Hawthorne, on December 10th, 2013 at 9:17 pm said:

    Great post! We loved Atchafalaya in the Garden District as well as Herbsaint and August. You probably know them but we recommend them highly!

  4. Alan Carmichael, on December 10th, 2013 at 9:37 pm said:

    My mouth started watering at the first bread pudding photo.

  5. Alan Carmichael, on December 10th, 2013 at 9:41 pm said:

    Herbsaint is on our Top Ten list. We look forward to trying the others Susan mentioned.

  6. Cynthia Moxley, on December 11th, 2013 at 1:19 am said:

    Alan, I thought that was a cute pic of you!

    Fay, we normally love Commander’s. But their customer service attitude was not good this time. It’s not like there aren’t plenty of other great restaurants in New Orleans!

    Susan: Thanks for your reccomendations. We definitely will try Atchafalaya and August on our next trip. Already love Herbsaint.

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